The manufacturers are reluctant to tell us what is in their paste and liquid waxes and in what quantities. I have always suspected the reason was that they did not want us to know how easy it was to make our own, and for how little a cost. Therefore they maintain secrecy, and flood us with advertising claims.
I use several commercial wax products for turning and finishing wood. I use some of them for convenience, and others because they are better than anything I can make.
You can take this page as product recommendations. What you see is here is because I use them, and not because any manufacturers offered incentives. I know there are other commercial products whose performance is equal to these, but I know nothing about them because I haven't used them.
None of these products will damage any wood finish that feels dry to the touch. It is always best to give any finish a few days before subjecting it to the rigors of buffing with either wheel, cloth or brush. And it is always best to check before applying the wax because there is always the possibility that the finish can be damaged by the chemistry of the wax itself.
Group photo of the commercial waxes I use
LATER
These are the commercial wax products I use. Others will be added to the photo when I add them to the products I keep on habd in my shop. Feel free to take this as a recommendation for the listed products, but that doesn't mean there aren't other products of equal quality.
Town Talk Lavender Wax
I bought this wax several years ago for no reason other than I wanted a wax with a lavender scent and didn't feel like buying the oil and mixing my own. I use the lavender on the inside of jewelry boxes, both turned and square, because women love the scent. It has been the reason many boxes have been sold.
I later discovered that, in addition to its delightful and long lasting scent, it is also an excellent finishing wax. It has no equal as a protective wax for other finishes, and I have used it on oils, varnishes, lacquer, and shellac.
I know that is a strong statement, but I stand by its truth. It is a durable wax for jewelry boxes and other items that are handled frequently.
Using this wax is as easy as following the directions on the can. When these directions say, "wait 15 minutes" between application and buffing with a soft cloth, that means waiting 15 minutes.
Like all waxes, buffing with cotton is best. I use old diapers from when the kids were little. That was the 1950's, but I think they are still available.
If you like citrus oils or waxes that contain citrus oils, you will love this one. It is the perfect wax for the inside of a salad bowl because it adds a fresh appetizing scent to the bowl. It is also an excellent wax.
Make sure oil finishes are fully cured and there is no lingering odor of mineral spirits or other thinners and solvents before using this wax.
Orange Oil and paint thinner do not make for a "fresh appetizing scent" on the inside of a bowl.
Read the directions on the can for the best application. Note that there is some difference in the directions for this wax and the Lavender Wax noted above.
This is a microcrystalline (mineral) wax that has several things going for it beside being by far the most expensive wax that is generally available to woodturners.
Being a mineral wax, it is harder and more water-resistant than any of the vegetable waxes, such as Carnauba. It also is a smaller particle. That means it can be hand rubbed to a thinner more compacted coating on the surface, and that equates to a more durable coating that will last longer and is more resistant to water and everything else than the lesser waxes.
Renaissance is pH neutral. To me, that means there will be little to no reaction with airborne chemicals, and less reaction means less deterioration of the wax and a longer life expectancy.
The only negative is it's price. In this case it only proves that, you get what you pay for and good things come in small packages.
Using Renaissance Wax is easy, just follow the directions. The finger tip is the best applicator, and go from application to buffing with a cloth in one action without waiting in between. Waiting ponger won't cause any problems, but it will make it more difficult to buff the surface after the wax has dried.
Watco Liquid Finishing Wax
I have no idea what is in this liquid wax, but I use a lot of it because it does what I want it to do and it is convenient. It was out of production for awhile, but I hope I am using enough to keep it on the store shelves.
I put on an wet coat of this wax after sanding, and before application of a lacquer sealer or the first coat of an oil finish.
I use it as a lubricant for a final sanding with 400-grit, and it slightly raises the wood grain for a smoother surface.
It accents every flaw in the wood, and then acts as a lubricant so they are easier to sand out, even after the wax has dries.
Lacquer goes on over it in a brushing application without any problems, and it makes an oil finish better with less staining and blotching than without it.
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