The "Fat-Line" Pen

Turning - Page 3 of 3

Return the mandrel to the lathe. Use the alighment marks if they were put on the spindle and mandrel.

Slide the pen blanks back on the mandrel WITHOUT the center bushing. Move the center bushing to the end of the mandrel as a spacer.

Line-up the marks on the wood.

"Finger tight" on the lock-nut is usually good enough at this point because all of the heavy cutting is done.

Turn the plastic to round and down to where it is the same size as the wood.

Do not turn any more off of the wood.

I use the spindle gouge for this

Taper the tip end of the wood with either the skew (shown) or the spindle gouge.

This is a short taper that matches the angle of the pen tip

Do the same thing on the other end.

This end has a long taper that runs from the center band to the cap.

The skew is definitely the better tool for this long taper.

Don't worry if it isn't smooth. That will be corrected with the next step.

Cont'd from previous Page - 2 of 3

Now is the time for the same "80-Grit Turning Tool" that we used for starting the sanding of the "Slim-Line" pen.

The sanding techniques are the same as for the "Slim-Line" except that we are taking some time to form a pleasing curve to the pen barrels.

I use 120 or 150 grit, making it more difficult to remove too much wood.

The next page is "Sanding and Finishing" the "Fat-Line' pen

Use the 'yellow' buttons to go to other Sections of "Making A Pen"

Return to "Woodturning Stuff"

- The "Slim-Line" Pen

- Advanced Pencrafting

- The "Slim-Line" Pen

- Advanced Pencrafting