This pen is similar to the "Slim-Line", with the only difference being that we are not using the center band from the parts kit. Instead, we are making our own center band from plastic or wood. I prefer to use the plastics that are sold as pen blanks. Dick Sing describes using pic-guard, a plastic sheet used by luthiers. I prefer the pen blanks because there is no limit on the width of the band or the color that we use; and we can also use a contrasting piece of wood.
This photo shows both the difference and the similarity bewteen the "Fat-Line" and "Slim-Line" pens. All fittings are the same except for the center band, which we will make.
In this photo, the center bushing is the same as that used for the "Slim-Line", and the wood will be rounded and sized "freehand".
The pen blanks are the same as those used for the "Slim-Line" pens.
The wood is oriented with the tip towards the headstock.
Some folks will feel more comfortable using a larger center-bushing to guide the diameter of the barrels. Here we are using the larger of the bushings that are used for the the "Father Sing" pens from Craft Supplies, catalog number.
This larger center bushing makes it easier to round the wood and bring it down to a consistent diameter.
Turn the diameter of the wood down to the center band. Leave the diameter at least 1/64" larger than the center bushing. The tool techniques are the same as those shown for turning the "Slim-Line" pen.
For a thinner pen, the wood can be turned down to the same diameter as the bushing. The bushing will be removed for final sanding and finishing.
The center end of the lower pen barrel is relieved down to the brass tube. I use the 1/16" parting tools to do this. I prefer a center band that is no wider than 1/8" and think that 3/32" looks the best with the pen.
Keep the shoulder as square as possible.
Use a couple drops of thin CA to stiffen up the wood if there is any tear-out from the parting tool.
This is what the pen blanks should look like after the relief has been cut.
Mark the wood so that it can be put back on the mandrel in the same orientation. This isn't necessary for a wood with a strong grain such as the Pacific Yew that we are using. It may not make any difference for burl and other wood with no grain pattern. It is a good habit to develop for everything else.
It is a good idea to also use a marking pen to indicate the location of the mandrel in the spindle so we can come back to the same place again.
