There are many options for what we now do with the pen. We could leave it "as-is"; try for a higher polish with ultra-fine polishing compounds, or use a friction polish, varnish, oil, shellac, Carnauba wax, or more CA Glue. I use a "Friction Polish" because it gives a higher gloss to the pen, while protecting it until it gets into the hands of the user. There are better finishes to put on a pen, but done correctly, it will be an adequate finish for the pen.
There are several shellac based "friction polishes" on the market, but I prefer the "Shellawax" liquid over the others.
Shake the bottle of "Shellawax" before each use.
Put 4, and no more than 5, drops of the product on a swatch of new cotton velour. Use a soft grade of paper towel if you can't find the Velour.
This is a case where too little is better than too much. The biggest problem that most folks have with a 'friction polish' is that they use too much of it.
Refer to "Friction Polishes" for a discussion of the merits of the Velour toweling material.
While running the lathe at somewhere between 1600 RPM and as fast as it will go, make one fast sweep across the pen to distribute the finish.
Use light pressure against the wood, slowly move the applicator back and forth across the surface. Run it off the ends of the wood with each pass. When the shellac on the applicator starts to dry, and the pad gets hot, make 2 or 3 final passes (slowly) along the length of the wood.
The secret to using a "friction polish is in its name. "Friction" means "heat", and the hotter the better. If you can get it to smoke, that is even better yet. The heat softens and flows the shellac across the wood surface. The smoke is all of oils and waxes in the finish being burned off, leaving behind a coating of pure shellac that is bright, durable, and resistant to body acids. When it is working right, I have to use a "Bandaid" to keep from burning my finger. Most problems with shellac finishes are because of these oils and waxes. For more information on Shellac, refer to "Shellac and The French Polish".
Keep the applicator moving on the surface until the shellac on the pad is dry and has formed a hard smooth mat on the surface of the cloth. This seamless polishing pad is the reason for using the Velour toweling.
This one looks good and is ready for use on several more pens.
Keep the applicator moving until you can no longer see any lines in the surface. Use a bright light and look closely.
Now do it one more time with another coat of the Friction Polish.
The pen is "finished".
Leave it on the mandrel until it has cooled.
The fresh shellac will be too soft for handling. Set it aside for awhile before assembling the pen. An hour is good. Two hours is better. Overnight is the best. We don't want to risk damaging our new pen before we have put it together.
